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More about Fond du Lac

Madison,
Wisconsin Getaway
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Through
the first third of the nineteenth century, Fond du Lac County was part
of the Winnebago Indian nation. With the end of the Blackhawk War in
1832, Native Americans began to be pushed farther and farther to the
north and west. By the close of the 1830's, the central Wisconsin
wilderness became a focal point for easterners
and eventually many immigrants hoping to create new lives for themselves
in Wisconsin. The rails from Chicago and
the lure of pleasure boating on Lake Winnebago ultimately brought
increasing numbers of people to Fond du Lac towards the end of the 19th
century.
The city of Fond du Lac itself was
effectively created by James Duane Doty (The very same former federal
judge who also purchased over 1000 acres of swamp land that
later became Madison, Wisconsin) who, late in 1835 along with George
McWilliams, purchased 3,705 acres in the area where the Fond du Lac
River flows into Lake Winnebago. Doty, often credited as “the
Wisconsin territory's premier speculator”, once had a plan to
construct a canal connecting to the Rock River at the Horicon marsh and
another to Sheboygan on Lake Michigan. An ambitious investor, Doty was
good for Wisconsin.
In 1847 Fond du Lac - French for
"foot of the lake" or "farthest end of the lake" - was incorporated as a village, and on March
19, 1852, the city was incorporated as a full-fledged city with over
2,000 persons living in it. There is an incredible amount of
interesting history, about Wisconsin in general and about Fond du Lac in
specific. But
I digress. My purpose here is to describe a great excursion
possibility for you and a special weekend in May for Heidi
and I as we journeyed to Fond du Lac, Wisconsin for a marvelous respite in a marvelous
and friendly city with an incredible amount to offer visitors and
residents alike.
Fond du Lac is approximately 165
miles from the suburbs of Chicago; in today's fast-paced world, that is
really not far at all. Unfortunately, there simply is no easy way
to go directly north from the suburbs of Chicago. But if one knows
a few back roads and has no great need to be in a hurry, the journey is
really not difficult at all. In fact, it can actually be fun and
relaxing; we arrived in Fond du Lac in about 3 hours. Being that
close-by makes Fond du Lac a great destination for a long weekend; it's
an easy one-hour drive north and a bit west of Milwaukee. The lake
itself - Lake Winnebago - at 137,700 acres is the largest inland
freshwater lake in
the United States, yet only averages about 15 feet in depth. (Make
a note of the fact that it is considered as one of the nation's top
walleye lakes and supports a healthy population of lake sturgeon as well...) One of the most
interesting things is that there are no resorts in Fond du Lac proper -
most of the property on the lakefront is privately owned - making for seemingly
limited opportunities for boaters and vacationers. Don't let that
stop you though; there is plenty of excellent lodging available in the
city, and there are resorts and campgrounds close by.
Heidi and I arrived in the early
afternoon and were able to get an early check-in to our hotel; we had
ample time, so we
headed east about 15 miles or so to Mt. Calvary and a unique place called
Villa Loretto. A nursing home originally opened in
1965 and operated by Catholic nuns, it is also offers residence for
independent and assisted living, as well as care for the aged,
physically challenged and chronically ill. Perhaps the most unique
feature of Villa Loretto is the rest of the "family" there...
Llamas, miniature donkeys, horses, goats, pot-bellied pigs, sheep, emus,
cats, dogs and birds - there are several aviaries inside the buildings as
well as peacocks, chickens, etc on the grounds. Whew! Sister
Stephen (with the handshake of a lumberjack and the patience of Job) gave us
a tour of the buildings and grounds. With the animals outside and
the care of the residents inside, she has her hands full... all the
time. Her obviously boundless energy is evidenced by the numerous
projects she has going, including a living presentation of the Nativity
during the Christmas season and "Fun Day at the Farm" event in August,
not to mention nun-driven hay rides, weaving demonstrations, tour busses
and constant guests and visitors during all months of the year.
Its a very interesting destination once in Fond du Lac - for children of
all ages - so make certain to place it on your list of stops to make!
When we inquired about venues for
dinner and specified a fish fry, we were directed to
Wendt's On
The Lake, just a few miles north of town on the west side of the
lake... with a heads up that the place is tremendously popular and an
urging to arrive early. Having skipped lunch, we were pretty
hungry and didn't have a problem with an "early bird" dinner, so we
headed to Wendt's at about 5:00pm. Popular was an incredible
understatement: the place was wall-to-wall already! We lucked out
with a window/lake-view table becoming available after only a short
wait. Wendt's specialty is perch - which was perfect - and Heidi
and I both ordered the "small" portion ("3 butterflys" or 6 fillets)
Served with fries, slaw and bread, the portion was perfect, the breading
crisp and light and the fish tender and tasty. There were plenty
of other menu choices that also sounded mouth-watering and I'm sure were
just as good (try the deep-fried lobster!). It was easy to see why Wendt's is so popular - the picnic
tables outside for overflow and outdoor dining during the warmer months
were also testament to that. Relaxing, friendly and casual with
well-dressed and courteous servers, this is a place I would go back to
any time. Owned and operated by the Wendt family for over four
decades, the food and service have earned Wendt's a well-deserved
reputation for great tasting fish - especially the perch - and seafood.
It was still early after dinner and the sun was shining brightly on a
warm spring evening when we headed over to check out the 400-acre
Lakeside Park. Numerous picnic areas, ball diamonds, a train ride,
canoes, a marina and more are available for residents and guests.
There is also a 40-foot lighthouse and observation deck that was built
in 1933, providing an excellent view of the lake and city. We
climbed the 70-plus stairs to the top for the view and were not
disappointed! although it was early in the season, we witnessed
hundreds of people picnicking, walking among the beautifully-landscaped
areas and fishing along the canals that run through the park. After the
climb to the top of the lighthouse, our thirst got the better of us and
we decided to stop in to the Historic Schmidt Sample Room - aka JD
Finnegan's -
for a libation. OK... it wasn't all thirst. We wanted
to see the place where Carry Nation came to swing her ax and cause a
disturbance in 1902. Neat little bar and great place to stop.
We crossed the street and returned to our hotel - the
Ramada Plaza
Hotel - for a nightcap and some live music at the Tru Blu
Lounge in the lobby area. The hotel is listed on the
National Register of Historic Places; it has great style, is extremely clean and
is a great place for a restful night's sleep. For business guests,
there is high-speed WIFI and a Business Center available in this 132
room hotel. There are also meeting and banquet rooms and a 7000
sq. ft. fitness center with a pool and plenty of workout equipment.
It was only 9:30pm, but Heidi and I were both exhausted from a long day,
so we headed up to our room for some well-deserved rest in preparation
for another busy day tomorrow.
Bright and early we headed over to
Schreiner's Restaurant
for breakfast. Much larger on the inside than it appeared on the
outside, Schreiner's has been a Fond du Lac tradition since 1938 with
its fresh bakery products, homemade soups and entrees and excellent
service. The restaurant is the proud recipient of numerous awards
on an annual basis. After some dynamite Roast Beef Hash and eggs for me
and an eye-appealing and tasty Asparagus Quiche for Heidi, owner and
president Paul Cunningham gave us a tour of the impressive kitchen (it
says the kitchen is open for tours... right on the menu!). It
was huge, extremely clean and ran like a well-oiled machine, which it
would have to: ours were only two of about 1500 meals
served that day... and every day - about a half million per year!
Thanking Paul and his fine staff for
a super breakfast, we headed to
St. Paul's Cathedral.
Now I will be the first to tell you that touring churches
just might be last on my list of things to do. But I must also tell
you that I have now discovered an exception to that statement. Ms.
Ruth Spoerri gave us a most delightful and interestingly anecdotal tour
of one of the most incredible structures that I have seen. Some
fabulous examples - both in marble and in wood - of German sculptures of
the disciples and American wood carvings, along with beautiful
paintings, adorn the interior of this church that dates back to the mid
1800's. Ms. Spoerri is a living encyclopedia with a wealth of
historical
knowledge and is happy to share it with visitors. I was
left with a whole new attitude toward churches and history. We
departed the church and took a short drive around the city to view some
of its other historic places, its colleges, industries (Mercury Marine
is located here) and fine old homes - many in the Victorian style.
We then decided to stop for lunch at a really neat little venue called
Juke Box Charlie's, a casual, 50's and 60's-themed
restaurant sporting a 2-story neon juke box and plenty of large-screened
TV's on which to watch your favorite sporting event. An
interesting menu - ditto on the atmosphere - and large portion sizes,
coupled with prices that are easy on the pocket book make this a
restaurant worth putting on your list. By the way, make sure to
order the homemade potato chips... they are fabulous!
After lunch we headed west out of town
to Larson's Famous Clydesdales.
Only about 20 minutes from Fond du Lac (in Ripon actually), Cal and Judy
Larson put on a show that you don't want to miss! It is perhaps
the quickest 90 minutes I have experienced lately, but a memory that
will last a lifetime. Clydesdales are fascinating horses to begin
with... I mean, everybody has seen them in television commercials
in association with a
certain beer. But have you ever been "up close and personal" with a
Clydesdale? Well here is a great chance to do just that.
Just being in the proximity of a horse that is 18 or so hands tall is
one thing, but being able to actually touch them is quite another -
especially if the one that you touch is a newborn! And the Larsons always guarantee to have a baby
Clydesdale available. At the time we
visited, there were a total of 11 Clydesdales there; two of them were
yearlings and one was a five day old foal. You'll definitely want
to see the Larson's Clydesdales. It's a great show at a horse farm
that is as clean as any I have ever seen, and the horses are obviously
quite happy there. Larson's is open 6 days per week from May 1st through
October.
Our very event-filled day still had
one final stop in it:
The Kristmas Kringle Shoppe.
Featuring about 75 themed Christmas trees and more lights, ornaments and
collectibles than you could ever imagine, this is one-stop shopping in a
Bavarian style building with year-'round Christmas and other holiday as
well. If you can't find it here, perhaps you'll never find it!
We had decided to spend Saturday night at the
Holiday Inn Fond Du Lac
... just
because.
So we headed over there to check in and relax in the
whirlpool and sauna for awhile before dinner. Microwaves,
refrigerators, coffee pots and free wireless high-speed Internet made
this a perfect place to spend the night. And it was also a perfect time
to discuss the past two days' activities over an adult beverage!
Actually, all the sauna did was serve to make me hungry for dinner.
And dinner was in the hotel at
Duffy's Steak House. An 8 oz fillet
cooked medium rare and topped off with crab, asparagus and Béarnaise
sauce was the
exclamation point on my day, and a pound of crab legs put an ear-to-ear
smile on Heidi's face. This was really livin'! It was
another early-to-bed night, and pleasant dreams were the "special" on a
different menu...
We had decided
to make one last stop in
the morning: the
Historic Galloway House and Village and accompanying
Blakely Museum and CCC Barracks. In their own special way,
they were glimpses back
into an era gone by. The Galloway House, replete with its etched glass,
hand-carved woodwork and "conveniences" not experienced by middle-class
America, and the Blakely Museum, with more really cool artifacts and
treasures than Carter had pills, were both - at the very least -
impressive. Along with the rest of the buildings in the village
(there are over 30!), the look into the past was instructive, insightful
and very interesting. There was far too much to attempt
description here. Needless to say, even if you are not a big
history buff, I would recommend a visit here. There are tours and
special activities all season long and the maximum amount that
admission costs is $20 for an entire family.
Before we left town, we made one
final stop for lunch. Our choice was
Salty's Seafood and
Spirits. A unique decor reminiscent of an ocean-side town
and a menu chock-full of mouth-watering entrees, salads, soups and
sandwiches, Salty's was the perfect choice for lunch. Our
understanding is that the place is hoppin' all the time. After
sampling Heidi's Blue Gills alongside my fish sandwich (haddock), it was
difficult to imagine the place ever being slow!
It was truly a whirlwind but fun
weekend that was jam-packed with activity. Even so, looking at the
Fond du Lac Visitor Guide, we barely scratched the surface.
Suffice it to say that there is plenty to do in and around Fond du Lac,
plenty of lodging available and beaucoup eating venues that are sure to
please. It is a given that we need to return to sample some more
of what Fond du Lac has to offer. After all, I didn't even mention
things like the Arts and Culture, Nature, Antiques, Specialty Stores,
Recreation or Entertainment mentioned in the Visitors Guide.
Unfortunately, many folks just pass this little gem by and head farther
north. My strong recommendation is to not make that mistake.
Plan a trip there and take advantage of a friendly and fun place to
visit - one that has some of the most reasonable prices that you will
encounter.
R. Karl
rkarl@onthelake.net
Special Thanks to:
- Michael Schmal & the entire staff at the
Fond du Lac Area Convention and Visitors Bureau for helping to put
this weekend together
- The Owners
and Managers of the above-mentioned businesses and attractions for
their invaluable assistance and enthusiasm on our excursion
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